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  1. #31
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    Re: What do you think?

    AFA removing rivets, start with as small a drill bit as possible, just slightly bigger than the little hole in the rivet. Gradually work your way up in drill bit sizes until the head of the rivet pops loose. It'll probably make its way part way up the bit, but you didn't make the hole it was originally in any bigger. I've done this before myself, and was very happy with the results... Here's the thread I posted on the subject in PimpRig.com forums:

    http://forums.pimprig.com/showthread...346#post263346

    It even has pics of the procedure and end results...
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  2. #32
    Joined
    Nov 2004
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    104

    Re: What do you think?

    Quote Originally Posted by Grandpa72
    AFA removing rivets, start with as small a drill bit as possible, just slightly bigger than the little hole in the rivet. Gradually work your way up in drill bit sizes until the head of the rivet pops loose. It'll probably make its way part way up the bit, but you didn't make the hole it was originally in any bigger. I've done this before myself, and was very happy with the results... Here's the thread I posted on the subject in PimpRig.com forums:

    http://forums.pimprig.com/showthread...346#post263346

    It even has pics of the procedure and end results...

    WOW! your the man granda! thanks alot

    By any chance would you happen to know anything about case etchin too woulda ya ? I want to etch my window panel and the non windows side of the case,I might put "SHELBY" logo on it with some anime drawings etc..

    **EDIIT** Just done the rivot mod,100% success thanks again.
    Last edited by Wrath of God; 12-16-2004 at 04:24 PM.
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  3. #33
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    Re: What do you think?

    The best bet (but most expensive way) is to have someone do it for you... Call around the trophy/plaque shops nearby, and ask them if they have a laser engraver that can handle engraving a sheet of plexi/perspex/acrylic of whatever size your window happens to be.

    The cheap way is the DIY way... Once you figure out the design you want to have etched/engraved on the window, blow it up or shrink it down to the size you want, then flip it horizontally (so if there is some text, it would now appear backwards on the print-out). Place the inverted/flipped image on the OUTSIDE of the window, making sure to secure it in place.

    Find the engraving bit of the size you want the lines to be (for more detailed designs, you may want to have more than one size, I have 5 different sizes in my Dremel toolkit, just for instance), then set your Dremel or rotary tool to about 15K RPM. Start with a small piece, in a corner or some part of the window that cannot be seen from the outside of the case, this will be your "test patch". If you have more than one engraving bit, this is where you check to see the size of the line created...

    Are you ready? Start gently, not much pressure is needed, almost like handwriting... If the design looks good from the backside (after blowing off any shavings, of course), re-trace the lines again with a slightly bigger bit, maybe a
    little more pressure than before, but the same speed...

    Why? From the work side, the lines are appearing to you as the wide part of a "V". From the front of the window (where the design is taped), the lines will be much narrower...

    Once the whole design is done, you can lift up one corner of the design template and check to see how it looks from the outside, and hit the work side again, if necessary (your time and money, after all...)

    While you're working, try to keep moving the bit along the lines, so that they are not uneven in terms of width, and it also prevents "burning" the surface too badly. Clearing off shavings can be done simply by blowing them away, but remember that plexi, perspex, and acrylic can scratch, so try to avoid using your hands to wipe the shavings off...

    Now for the solid panels... Use painter's or masking tape to cover the entire area to be etched/engraved. The next step involves transferring the non-inverted design to the tape, or using the print-out, but placing it under the tape (I wouldn't recommend doing it this way)...

    If the image is to be transferred onto the tape, it should be printed out to the deisred size, without inverting or flipping it. Using carbon paper under the print-out, carefully trace the outlines of the design onto the painter's tape, checking under the matrix to make sure the lines are coming out right. Once the whole design is set on the tape to your satisfaction, run a Sharpie or some other fine-point marker over the outlines, just to make sure you don't wipe off the carbon paper residue in the process of engraving...

    Got the design carbon-transferred and double-tapped with the marker? Slowly start with either the engraving bit at something like 10K~15K, repeat the process like you did with the window. Don't pause at any point in the trace, since this may cause you to bear down in one spot, which causes the lines to look ragged instead of smooth...

    If you do the design under the tape, the problem becomes having to press through the tape, and then the paper that the design is printed on (that's why I don't like it, but it CAN be done...) The process is the same as the above...

    Other options are to have the panels laser-engraved, sand-blast etched, or even water-cut/etched, but these processes are labor-intensive and sometimes very expensive.

    For me, the bottom line when it comes to case/hardware modding is this: I'm much more impressed with the outcome of a mod when someone does it by hand, with the simplest possible tools. Anyone can buy a case that is modded as stock at the factory. A case mod artiste can bring out the wildest designs onto a plain-jane beige case, using the most powerful non-power tools in the world: their imagination and creativity.

    Good luck to you on your project, and post some pics of it, before, during, and after...

    Last thing: Don't rush the job, it will show when you do. By the same token, don't be afraid to do a whole lot of little things, they eventually add up to a work of art...

    PEACE!

    EDIT: Yet another satisfied modder (rivets, that is...)
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  4. #34
    Joined
    Nov 2004
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    104

    Re: What do you think?

    woot! thats a lot info,I will go thenDIY route not becuase its cheap(just a litlle) but becuase its DIY (Woot!) I rather try and fail then pay and succeed.

    I like the tape mod,I just bought some painter tape and I'm thinkin that using the tape will be easier..but I will practice getting through the tape on my sacrifice case 1st lol...that case has gotten soooo much punishment...shes a true warrior lol

    Do you reccoment using cutting wheels for etches? check this one out http://www.controlled-insanity.com/F...pic.php?t=1209 this guy uses a cutting wheel for his window mod...looks amazing! I want something similiar.
    Last edited by Wrath of God; 12-16-2004 at 05:04 PM.
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  5. #35
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    Re: What do you think?

    Actually, he is a she... Jess is one of the resident modsters at PimpRig.com (AND a personal friend of mine, I might add... )

    The cutoff wheel she mentioned was used to cut the acrylic into the window shape, not engrave it. I know because I sent her two of my old engraving bits for the project...

    So I would have to say no to using cutoff wheels for engraving purposes, unless you have the funds to replace any of the plexi/acrylic/perspex you plan to use for the window...
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  6. #36
    Joined
    Nov 2004
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    104

    Re: What do you think?

    Quote Originally Posted by Grandpa72
    Actually, he is a she... Jess is one of the resident modsters at PimpRig.com (AND a personal friend of mine, I might add... )

    The cutoff wheel she mentioned was used to cut the acrylic into the window shape, not engrave it. I know because I sent her two of my old engraving bits for the project...

    So I would have to say no to using cutoff wheels for engraving purposes, unless you have the funds to replace any of the plexi/acrylic/perspex you plan to use for the window...

    Well...I stand corrected
    but for the non plexi side of the case I will need a cut off wheel right?
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  7. #37
    Joined
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    Re: What do you think?

    I wouldn't recommend using cutoff wheels for anything but cutting holes into the panels of the case... For example, a 120mm blowhole in the top of the case will take forever to drill and file, whereas with a couple of reinforced cutoff wheels, you can cut out the hole in about 5-10 minutes, being extra careful, and there's not much to file down.

    For engraving on plexi/acrylic/metal/whatever, I would stick to the engraving bits.

    That's just me, though... You mentioned a sacrifice case... Try it out, see which turns out better for you, and let me know (PICS, I NEED PICS, MAN!!!)
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  8. #38
    Joined
    Nov 2004
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    104

    Re: What do you think?

    I'm still sanding the case up..not u sure u want pix of that? lol I'll throw in some pix soon Im still reading up on bondo too.I want to be 100% sure of what I'm doing so I wanna prepare myself fot bondo usage....will test it on dummy case 1st too.

    I'm still waiting on my 125Piece dremel bit set too so I can start my window mod,I got do window mod before I paint

    And I'm still planing on where to put my second PSU which I will be using to power a TEC.

    Rivotes removed,more sanding to be done
    Last edited by Wrath of God; 12-16-2004 at 09:02 PM.
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  9. #39
    Joined
    Nov 2004
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    104

    Re: What do you think?

    Any ideas of what to do with the inner red paint? its gonna be really hard to sand all those areas should I just clean it throughly prime and coat?
    I did the red on my 1st try btw..and only layed one coat on it..way before I knew anything about paintjobs and coats etc..lol


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  10. #40
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    Re: What do you think?

    Well with only one coat I would say go ahead. Use the sandpaper to scuff it up a bit and remove all the plastic fan holder brackets before you do.
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  11. #41
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    Nov 2004
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    104

    Re: What do you think?

    Quote Originally Posted by grumblemarc
    Well with only one coat I would say go ahead. Use the sandpaper to scuff it up a bit and remove all the plastic fan holder brackets before you do.

    Damn...sanding that things gonna be a B oh well someone gotta do it lol
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  12. #42
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    Re: What do you think?

    You don't have to sand down to bare metal. Just roughen up the surface so the paint will stick. If I were you I'd also mask off the levers on the drive cages and the "notch" that they latch onto. Maybe not even paint the very top of them since they won't be seen. That way with the paint build up you won't run the risk of the cages not fitting afterwards. Mask them off with masking/painters tape
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  13. #43
    Joined
    Nov 2004
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    104

    Re: What do you think?

    Great idea, will do if everything goes according to plan I will finally have this thing primes as of tomorrow gonna bondo the lower case tonight too...dont have wax removier but will do my best to bondo it.
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  14. #44
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    Nov 2004
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    104

    Re: What do you think?

    Dammit! I think I messed up the bondo job...this is getting really annoying if I screw it up this time I'm quitting(paintjob)



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  15. #45
    Joined
    Mar 2004
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    192

    Re: What do you think?

    Not ragging ya, but the pics look kinda fuzzy to me, I can't really tell how bad (or not so bad) the bondo job came out... If I recall (been a while since I used it myself), you should apply a little more than what you need, and sand it down once it cures/dries/sets, especially if you're doing curved surfaces... As long as you filled in the cracks and crevices with a little more than you would need for smooth, you can always sand it down to where you want it to be, then prime/paint it up, and no one but us will know there's bondo in there, unless you tell them...
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