n00b keyboard questions, RAM overclocking, RAMdisk

[mickleby]

Hi,

It's so embarrassing to admit. I've bought components to do my very first build, and only now I realize the motherboard doesn't have a PS/2 port.

Do I buy a USB keyboard? Does the BIOS have a driver to operate the USB keyboard? If so, a USB mouse, too?

I had the computer hardware store do a POST test before I took the components from the store. I know the tech connected a PS/2 keyboard to some adapter that he had plugged into the mobo rear panel--I just assumed there was a PS/2 connecter there, and didn't note where/what the tech was using to connect the keyboard.

If you also want to suggest some reading material that covers this ground, I'll conscientiously read that before posting here so helplessly again. I did start by Google-ing and browsing Newegg, but I think my question is so basic few bother to mention this info.

I hope I don't get flamed for being so green! Well, at least I probably made you laugh at me. Sorry, to be so lame.

It's how I feel, so I'll sign this way:
R.I.P. Van Winkle

--------------------------------------------------------
(added after the kind replies of Meridian and Electric Bill)

I'm assuming I will need an OS to pair a Bluetooth keyboard. Is this true? Or, have they added this to the BIOS/CMOS as well?

On a different query, I have been reading about memory for weeks, but various questions remain.
* The Asus P8Z77-I mobo is rated for 2200MHz memory. Does this imply the mobo has a memory controller? Or is the Intel Ivy Bridge i7-3770k able to control overclocked memory?
* If I try to o/c the RAM, how much voltage can I safely use? Most higher clock DDR3 is 1.65v while I've read the Ivy Bridge CPU can be damaged by more than 1.55v (1.5v +/- 0.05v).
* And what about undervoltage? Is it fine to use 1.3v RAM with Ivy Bridge? Will 1.3v RAM be damaged by overvolting as high as 1.5? Or will the RAM simply begin to err and thus require an appropriate voltage before permanent damage is done? (assuming, rigorous memory testing at each 0.05v increase)

I'm replacing an HP HDx16 desktop-replacement laptop that had only SATA2 and DDR2-800. On that old system, I found significant performance enhancement by moving some files to RAMdisk. I'm a little surprised to find the absence of much discussion of RAMdisk these days. Are the throughput and latency of SATA3 and SSD really so much enhanced over SATA2 that no one feels a need to move any files into their 2133MHz overclocked RAM?

--------------------------
(Another addendum)

This is something of a tangent, but I will document what I learned hoping to elicit more info from the Forum or possibly to shed light for others: I was confused that the Asus mobo won't enter BIOS Setup on boot no matter what keys are pressed. It is required to Clear RTC RAM (whatever that means) so that pressing <Delete> on boot will present the BIOS Setup menus. Is this a security feature? I would think the option to create a password is more direct, but I'm n00b. Getting to the jumper is no sweat with the mobo on the bench, but I will need to remove GFX card at the very least once the mobo is installed in the Prodigy case.

Also, I had a 30min window of anxiety and fear when I couldn't get the mobo to POST or even complain errors at me. I have little understanding what I did to upset it. I was fiddling with the BIOS for a couple hours with no hint at an issue, changing only the CPU fan settings and the memory frequency. Finally I added the CD drive, requiring me to disconnect the PSU from the mobo, remove the PSU from the case so that I could add the modular SATA power cable. When I put it back together in the Prodigy she was not happy! No beeps, no flashing lights--and no video signal to the monitor. One thought I had was a short in one of the cables from the PSU, as these need to be bent considerably to to wrangle the 160mm modular PSU into the Prodigy 180mm clearance. I was expecting the tight fit, and had been reassured it "just barely" fits. What finally got me back up was disconnecting all power and removing the CMOS battery. Maybe --maybe-- I had left the RAM at 2133 and the mobo was hiding the BIOS once a boot device was available and...something about loading the linux kernel from the SystemRescueCD was consistently leading to no video signal? I'm really at a loss. It was thereafter that I realized I should leave the mobo on the bench and stress the RAM using memtester until I feel confident whatever I had done has passed.

[Meridian]

Yes, you need to buy a USB keyboard and mouse. I would guess that the person you saw doing the tester used a USB-PS2 connecter. Don't bother going down this route. With modern motherboards and Operating Systems, everything else is automatic - the BIOS will see the devices and so will Windows. Just plug the keyboard and mouse in while power is off, and power up. If you are using a wireless system then follow the enclosed instructions about linking the devices to the receiver, but for wired devices nothing else is required. If Windows doesn't seem to see the devices, reboot the computer.


A quick note about USB 2 and USB 3: You will probably find that some USB ports are marked in the motherboard manual as USB3. Usually these have a coloured insert (often blue) inside the fixed connector, compared to the usual black. It's best not to waste these on keyboard and mouse. Use ordinary USB 3 ports. Any will do.

[Electric Bill]

A quick note about USB 2 and USB 3: You will probably find that some USB ports are marked in the motherboard manual as USB3. Usually these have a coloured insert (often blue) inside the fixed connector, compared to the usual black. It's best not to waste these on keyboard and mouse. Use ordinary USB 3 ports. Any will do.

I think he meant Use ordinary USB ports.

I recommend Logitech MK520 Black 103 Normal Keys 10 Function Keys USB RF Wireless Ergonomic Combo. I own 2 and love them.

Damn, I came here to check today's spam and found a real thread.

Bill

[mickleby]

Thanks for the replies. And quick, too!

I've added more questions to the original postat top.

[mmettin]

I'm assuming I will need an OS to pair a Bluetooth keyboard. Is this true? Or, have they added this to the BIOS/CMOS as well?

As far as i know, yes you will need a os for pairing. Admittedly I haven't tried a BT keyboard on anything current generation though.

* The Asus P8Z77-I mobo is rated for 2200MHz memory. Does this imply the mobo has a memory controller? Or is the Intel Ivy Bridge i7-3770k able to control overclocked memory?

Using a "K" series processor negates the need to overclock the memory, as the processor is overclocked by just a multiplier change/increase in voltage

* If I try to o/c the RAM, how much voltage can I safely use? Most higher clock DDR3 is 1.65v while I've read the Ivy Bridge CPU can be damaged by more than 1.55v (1.5v +/- 0.05v).

See previous answer

* And what about undervoltage? Is it fine to use 1.3v RAM with Ivy Bridge? Will 1.3v RAM be damaged by overvolting as high as 1.5? Or will the RAM simply begin to err and thus require an appropriate voltage before permanent damage is done? (assuming, rigorous memory testing at each 0.05v increase)

DDR3 1333 or 1600 at 1.5V is all you would need on the current 1155 socket stuff. Unless you are after "I AM A BENCHMARKING GOD" status. No real world noticeable difference.

[mickleby]

DDR3 1333 or 1600 at 1.5V is all you would need on the current 1155 socket stuff. Unless you are after "I AM A BENCHMARKING GOD" status. No real world noticeable difference.

mmettin, thanks for the reply.

I do understand the benefits of o/c memory are marginal. I think this is to no small degree because of hefty L3 cache and to some degree speculative execution that is possible on a CPU with up to 8 virtual threads (hyperthreads) of execution.

Still, because the Asus P8Z77-I Deluxe motherboard makes memory overclocking possible, I want to be as safe as possible when I experiment.

In a couple weeks, when I have the components installed into a stable system I will update this thread concerning what I learn first-hand overclocking the i7-3770k and a couple different kits of RAM.

(To this last point, part of the purpose of building a rig for myself is to assist my nephew as he also builds his first computer. I bought an 8GB (2x4GB) 1333MHz kit that I intend to give to my nephew after testing the o/c capabilities myself; then, I will buy myself a 16GB kit that will max out the P8Z77-i mobo. If I have good success with the 1333MHz RAM, I may not spring the extra cash for "pre-overclocked" 1866MHz (or what-have-you) RAM when I buy my own DDR3 kit.)

[EH100501AC]

The higher rated kits are tested at those frequencies which is why they are branded as so.
This is not to say that a 1333 kit won't OC to 1600, 1866, etc. but the likelihood is a lot less.
On the other hand, the 2000, 2133 kits may not go any higher and some even need to be under clocked to lower frequencies for stability.
Read up on binning processes.

[richardd43]

Bluetooth is not part of the OS. If you buy the correct motherboard you will have Bluetooth built in. If not you will need an adapter which normally comes with the Bluetooth device you buy.

[mickleby]

EH100501AC, thanks for the reply.

I have some sense of binning. I'm led to believe that raising the voltage is often necessary when overclocking memory. So my thought is memory rated at 1.3v o/c'd at 1.45v is similar to 1.5v oc'd to 1.65v.. and also within the 1.5v +/- 0.05v specs for the Ivy Bridge CPU.

BTW, these Corsair XMS3 1333MHz C9 8GB (2x4GB) sticks seem stable at 1600MHz using the Asus P8Z77 BIOS RAM frequency selector with no further adjustments. I'm running memtester from an old SystemRescueCD I had. I didn't check the timings the mobo is using at 1600, but I did see that the almost stable 2133 was using Cas 10 and 1.5v... Not too shabby for what the salesmen said was low-end memory.

Curious (to me at least) the board won't POST at 1866 or at 2000 but seems happy at 2133 until it becomes stressed. At some point I will check what timings the BIOS is choosing for those frequencies. If I find Cas 9 with Cas 10 first used at 2133 this could be encouraging.

At some point I will try a manual overclock of these sticks to see if I can make them stable above 1600 or what have you. For a first pass on my first build, I am quite pleased to see the linux desktop with the basic o/c of 1600 on cheapish RAM.

[mickleby]

Bluetooth is not part of the OS. If you buy the correct motherboard you will have Bluetooth built in. If not you will need an adapter which normally comes with the Bluetooth device you buy.

richardd43, thanks for replying.

Somewhere I finally read that Bluetooth devices are not available from BIOS. Of course that was my guess because it seems strange to store pairing info in CMOS, as would be necessary to pair and use a Bluetooth keyboard before the OS fires up.

[mickleby]

BTW

I have the system up and running with an old install of Vista.. It's pretty exciting!

i7-3770k
ASUS P8Z77-I Deluxe
Corsair XMS3 2x4GB 1333C9
Corsair H100
Seasonic X-850
Bitfenix Prodigy
Logitech K400 wireless keyboard w/ trackpad

No surprise, there has been lots of learning curve. I mean the keyboard question, alone!

I have a GTX 460 2Win but I haven't been able to use it so far. Again, ramp up issues, I have an HDMI cable that connects to the mobo but the gfx card has mini-HDMI or DVI -- neither I have at the mo. I picked up a VGA cable when I was out not realizing neither my mobo nor my gfx card has VGA

I am hopeful that Win7 will enable the Lucid VirtuMVP and thus I will be able to use the mobo HDMI connector and the gfx card. Will post RE that.

ASUS auto OC is pretty sweet! Push a button, have some patience, and the i7-3770k seems stable at 4434.7MHz compared to the stock 3900MHz. Also, the 1333 DDR3 is happy at 16?? C9 1.5v and 18?? C10 1.5v. I will experiment more with the RAM, but that process is tedious.

The H100 has the CPU at a mere 45C with Prime95 running 5min. and the pump/fan set to low. The only issue there is the Corsair fans are noisy. Prodigy came with 2x Bitfenix 120mm fans (front & rear) that I am using together with the 2x Corsair 120mm in a push/pull on the H100. It was a little tricky bolting all the fans to the radiator and then to the case, but I bought a screwdriver with a long thin neck and was able to use only the screws that come with the H100. BTW, the H100 seemed unopened, but there was some minor bending of fins on the radiator. I quickly bent some more, so I suppose this is to be expected. To finish the thought, I now have a Cooler Master 200mm intake front (quiet!) and Antec 140mm exhaust rear (nice pressure, very quiet!!). 10min Prime95 now, H100 low, CPU 49C mobo 33C... Sweet!

The case is a bit awkward. I don't like the wiring on the side "other"/right side panel, makes connecting and installing the mobo too intricate. Also, the side panel audio socket on the mobo sits under the PCIe slot, so the gfx card squashes the HD Audio leads and the side panel USB leads.

Speaking of the side panel USB. I can't connect the external DVD drive to them. Windows complains "device has malfunctioned"; will investigate.

[mickleby]

I just have to gush:

30 minutes with Prime95 and the temps actually went DOWN a bit from what I reported at 10min. 48C CPU 32C mobo!

I think I will crank up the H100 to Turbo to see if I can shave more heat. Also, I wonder what 2x GTX 460 (2Win SLI) will do to the temps?