A good tip for cheap PSU's or any molex connector for that matter.
Whenever I get a PSU or a "Y" cable I use hotglue to fill in the empty spaces around the wires in the molex connectors. This secures the wires in place and means they won't rattle around or push out(very cheap molex connectors).
All it takes is a quick shot of glue from the gun, simply hold the gun right up against the wire and fill in the empty spaces one at a time.
I can use my molex connectors over several years and they still work as good as the day I got them.. I like to tinker alot and this is the best solution I have found for cheap molex connectors. After awhile I just started doing it on all my molex connectors.
XP2100@1733MHz stock 1.750 Vcore but both of the and in fact in forums all of them overvolt the cpu. He's is closer to 1.80
My friend has the ANTEC Plus 1080AMG SOHO File Server
2 80mm outtaking back
2 80mm Intaking front
1- 80mm Side door
2- Power supply
He took out the the very soft sounding 80mm and just put in normal sounding case fans not fast fans at all just not 800 to 1200 rpms and added 1 more in front
46C IDLE 51C MAX LOAD (SERIOUS SAM SE 1 hr) WE both have the KT400 CHipset A7V8X ASUS and live on on the west coast
XP2100@1833 100 FSB OC @Vcore 1.750 but overvolts 1.78
ANTEC SLK2600 Super Mini Tower
2 80mm enermax adjustable 1-3k rpms intaking front
1 80mm outtaking Enermax adjustable 1-3k outtaking
1 P.S fan
1-120mm in in front of the 2 front intaking but not right next to it blow to the middle of the case
49c IDLE 54c max LOAD (Serious Sam SE 1HR)
Same KT400 A7V8X ASUS
My review of the Thermal take volcano 9
4900+RPMs @75+CFM's does as high as 5400RPMs
80mm adjustable 1300Rpms to max by hand or
thermal control sensor that as it gos up in temp so does the rpms
Orange fan
Also they sell a mod 9 (lights) verions
80x80x85.5 Cooler
80x80x25 mm Fan
48db@5000( Isay louder but no where near a delta screamer
The thermaltake volcano 9 is rated at XP2800 and up those higher MHz Tbreds better really run cool I dont think I would use past XP2400-2600 XP we use Palomino XP So I cant say for sure maybe some one can shed some light on this for us here.
Great cooler for XP2100 and down
Good ocering can be done with it if done right I plan on going higher atleast 50 MHZ more
No Delta but no 25-35db at max
There you have it a $17 cooler that does let you oc
I try to update this guide about every six months or so - and it's right here on Amdmb.com (over in the Asus mobo forum FAQs).
The Basics
Heat Transfer - Thermodynamics
Airflow
Heatsinks
Component cooling
A Closer Look at Processor Cooling
Noise - Acoustics 101
Case Modifications (for better cooling)
Other Types of Cooling
Additional Sources of Information
This guide is about LEDs (Light Emitting Diodes). It starts off with a little theory and then jumps into a section on how-to calculate resistance values for LED current limiting resistors. Next, I'll cover a simple circuit, which can be used to make a blue LED work with most any motherboard. The last part includes more pictures of LEDs in action.
Chieftec Golden Green Dragon with the new window style.
Is my Main pc case now which I just got. Window is as big as door no half size one from Chieftec anymore for the Dragons, dare I say biggest one on a case today?.This runs about $69 to $150, 10 colors steel/ALU casing/extras like window or side fan or front flip door with 2 usb/1394 /locks on 2 front door and case door handle.
I got the Steel/Newer window /Side fan/Both locks. No no flip door in front which is fine I have 6 2.0 us on m.b, 2 on kB and 2-1394 and case is side ways easy to get too
I got at cost at friends job $70, having a buddy get things at cost makes it alot easy to buy sell and get better all the time.
Quick release drive bays with release lever, Snap-in fan mounts. Maximum security: Lockable swing-out side panel with handle. 2 x 8cm front fan holder. 2 x 8cm rear fan holder. Window fan (videocard), Two removable 3.5" cage that can hold 3 x 3.5" HDD. The lockable front door that covers the 4 x 5.25" external drives and 2 x 3.5" external bays. Comes with USB, IEEE 1394 Ports.
Specifications: Dimension: 473 x 205 x 522mm (DxWxH), 18.60" x 8.07" x 20.54". Drive: 4 x 5.25" external, 2 x 3.5" FDD external, 4 x 3.5" HDD internal. Fits different size M/B, including 12"W x 13"L XEON motherboard. Expansion slots: 7. Case fan: 2 x 8cm front case fan (optional), 2 x 8cm rear fan (optional). 1 80mm side fan (included). Material: 1.0mm SECC.
2- 80mm outtaking back
2-80mm intaking
1- 80mm side window/door videocard
PRO's
ROOM TO WORK IN (NO M.B TRAY)
FULL SIZE CASE 10 BAYS IN ALL
MADE GREAT
GREAT COOLING AIR FLOW
READY TO TRICK OUT THE LOOK
LIKE ...........
All the fans are Green 3 led 80mm Antec
1- 13 inch Green Cold Cathode
In top bay a Vantec NEXUS 4 fan adjuster each knob has a circle blue light around it very bright too they make them in black or silver with white letters I got a black one
For me I have a few rules that I like to stick to when getting a power supply
A-If I am using a AMD Pc setup I want a 400 watt+ p.s
atleast.
B-Rails are very important too for me I like to see
40A-45A for +5
40A-45A for +3.3
20A-25A for +12
C-The +5 and +3.3 has to be atleast 275 watt for a 300 watt and for a 400 atleast 365watts.
D-The brand I have had for many pc's over the years was Pc Power and cooling they at one time make the best P.S and maybe still due and I love the 5yr warranty.
I had my 425watt that I got in late 99 die on me this year and they sent me a brand new one just the casing and the fan was same the rest of the p.s was brand spanking new now thats service right?.
But now a days others are making very good P.S like ANTEC overall most of ANTEC items are made well. I got a small case for my back up pc and it came with a low end line from them the SL300s yet the P.S rocks and if the low end line rock I must think the true power just kicks *** and I maybe down the road I my give them a chance.
The SL300s is only about $35 on pricewatch.com but its a great 300watt. The +5 and +3.3 is 280watt !!! and my back up is always in use and it oced and has alot of toys in the case to run and has no troubles at all in fact just to test how well it was I had it in the pc in my sig for 3 months too see how it handled the power pc I feel I have and it did it with ease it just rocks but to be on the safe side dont go any lower than 350watt for a normal amd setup
If you have a setup like my loaded in the way with many parts to run get at least a 400-425 is what I have just to have incase to have a tad of head room
Just know this the power supply is the most overlooked part in the pc and can lead to rebooting to no boot up to dead p.s after a few months if you go cheap I know of persons who go cheap and get a p.s like every 5 months
Do it the first time right and your off to a great start to having a fast stable,great setup for what ever you need for the pc
Hope this will be helpful. I am a little supprised when Igloo2500 and Iglo2500 Pro working so good. If you compare the results with the second review, they are as good as SK6 and SK7.
Cooling is an issue that cannot be ignored, new components run hotter and hotter. Good cooling is getting more and more expensive, and quiet cooling adds even more cost. But a little planning and good design goes a long way. Ducting can increase the efficiency of air cooling by surprising amounts.
Ducts are mostly used in 2 ways, to fit a larger fan to a small fan mount, and to direct airflow to give better flow over hot areas.
Originally posted by Tigsman Just one of those fine links in which a picture can say a 1000 words. I found it during my Information Superhighway travels today and I dont know if its already been posted, but if so, here it is again.
Before putting any heat sink (cpu, nb, etc) look the bottom over for "finishing" marks left at fabrication. Use the above guide as a ref. The smoother the finish, the better the heat transfer!!
Enjoy the read and hope it helps.
PS Found this guide also (it follows more closely the way I did it )